The Local: The Voices Behind NYC Textile Week

Designers & Agents, NYCEDC Announce First Made in NY Collective Winners

A select group of fashion and jewelry designers just received one incredible industry opportunity.

Designers & Agents and the New York City Economic Development Corporation (NYCEDC) have announced the winners of the first “Made in NY Collective,” an initiative that promotes New York City’s emerging creative talent.

Read more on Sourcing Journal.

HSAD Fashion Students Explore Sustainable Design

School’s out for the summer—almost. But for the High School of Art and Design’s (HSAD) Fashion Department, the most stressful part of the year is over.

More than 125 students from 9th through 12th grades took part in “Sustainable Product Development in the Fashion Industry,” a program that kicked off in the fall of 2015 and culminated in “Concept Sustainability: The Fashion Show” on May 12 at the Brooklyn Fashion + Design Accelerator (BF+DA).

BF+DA subsidized the manufacturing of more than 45 garments for 15 finalists, who got to experience the hands-on process of design meetings, creating technical design packages through techpacker.com, fabric and trim sourcing, and garment fittings, in addition to the final fashion show.

Each student designed within a category: career wear, sponsored by Limitless La Vie; sleep and loungewear (Underfashion Club); and High Concept Fashion (Priscilla Wood Foundation). After showing their collections on the night, students with the top three designs won scholarships totaling $14,000.

But that’s not all. Throughout the year the students got to learn about the ethical value of sustainable fashion by designing with sustainable textiles, thanks to program partner Lenzing, as well as understand manufacturing and resourcing locally and responsibly with BF+DA, MCM Enterprise and Dynatex. They also got to design denim collections using upcycled fabric and clothing with Lucky Brand Jeans.

Other highlights from the year included the 10th grade using a sustainable cellulose fiber to create knit gowns based on the concepts of Madeleine Vionnet and Halston, while the Textile Arts Center taught 11th grade designers how to make a loom and weave original designs from upcycled fabrics and trims.

According to HSAD, “In the short time we have started this program, our students are starting to become more specific within their fashion college major because of a better understanding of different careers in fashion. Also, through the fashion show our students gain confidence, resilience and perseverance through creating a production showcasing their work.”

KPNY Returns in July

This year marks the 20th anniversary of Korean Preview in New York, better known as KPNY.

Taking place July 13-14, some 70 of Korea’s leading fabric and textile manufacturers will proudly present their Fall/Winter 2017 collections in five pavilions. This event is a must-attend for any sourcing professionals, product development specialists, designers, apparel fabric buyers, or just about anyone interested or involved in the fashion industry.


KPNY invites you to explore a unique collection of textiles and the latest trends, offered at top-notch quality yet economical pricing for all product categories, including womenswear, menswear, childrenswear, lingerie, and more. Come and learn more about Korea’s top apparel textile companies at Korean Preview in New York 2016 for two full days of sourcing and networking. The event is free, and readers can register by visiting www.koreanpreview.com.

The Met’s Manus x Machina Explores the Art of Fashion

With a name like “Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology,” the casual observer would be forgiven for assuming that robots pay a major role in this summer’s Costume Institute exhibit at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art.

In fact, apart from a few pieces by Turkish fashion designer Hussein Chalayan—molded fiberglass dresses that transform when prompted by a remote control—the exhibition is decidedly lacking in robots.

Instead, Manus x Machina explores how designers are reconciling the handmade and the machine-made in the creation of haute couture and avant-garde ready-to-wear.

“Fashion and technology are inextricably connected, more so now than ever before,” Thomas Campbell, the Met’s director and chief executive, explained in a press release. “It is therefore timely to examine the roles that the handmade and the machine-made have played in the creative process. This exhibition proposes a new view in which the hand and the machine, often presented as oppositional, are mutual and equal protagonists.”

Running through Aug. 14 in the museum’s Robert Lehman Wing, the Apple-sponsored exhibition features more than 170 ensembles, spanning a 19th century hand-crocheted Irish lace wedding dress to a 2014 scuba-knit gown by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, with a 20-foot train hand-painted with gold metallic pigment, machine-printed with rhinestones, and hand-embroidered with pearls and gemstones.

“Traditionally, the distinction between the haute couture and prêt-à-porter was based on the handmade and the machine-made, but recently this distinction has become increasingly blurred as both disciplines have embraced the practices and techniques of the other,” Andrew Bolton, the show’s curator, said. “Manus x Machina challenges the conventions of the hand/machine dichotomy and proposes a new paradigm germane to our age of technology.”

As such, the exhibition is structured around the traditional métiers of haute couture. A series of alcoves on the first floor examine embroidery, featherwork, and artificial flowers. The ground floor space has more of a flow, with interconnected rooms examining pleating, lacework and leatherwork, as well as a room dedicated to toiles and the ateliers of tailoring and dressmaking. On both floors, traditional hand techniques are discussed alongside such off-the-moment technologies as 3-D printing, computer modeling, bonding and laminating, laser cutting, and ultrasonic welding.

Jonathan Ive, Apple’s chief design officer, commented, “Both the automated and handcrafted process require similar amounts of thoughtfulness and expertise. There are instances where technology is optimized, but ultimately it’s the amount of care put into the craftsmanship, whether it’s machine-made or handmade, that transforms ordinary materials into something extraordinary.”

Designers appearing in Manus x Machina include: Cristobal Balenciaga, Thom Browne, Sarah Burton (Alexander McQueen), Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, Christian Dior, Nicolas Ghesquière (Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton), Hubert de Givenchy, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough (Proenza Schouler), Iris van Herpen, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren (Viktor & Rolf), Marc Jacobs (Louis Vuitton), Christopher Kane, Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons), Alexander McQueen, Martin Margiela, Issey Miyake, Thierry Mugler, Noir Kei Ninomiya (Comme des Garçons), Miuccia Prada, Gareth Pugh, Simone Rocha, Yves Saint Laurent (Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent), Raf Simons (Christian Dior), Riccardo Tisci (Givenchy), Junya Watanabe (Comme des Garçons), and Yohji Yamamoto, among others.

Check out nycgo.com for more events and things to do around New York this summer, or download your free Delegate Discount Pass to gain access to other perks around the city.

Robert Bergmann on Taking Sustainability from Fad to Force

It’s been three years since the wake-up call that was the deadly Rana Plaza factory collapse in Bangladesh, and supply chain sustainability is still a hot-button issue.

Among those striving to ensure that such an accident never happens again is Robert Bergmann, the founder of Responsibility in Fashion, a nonprofit working to inspire greater accountability across the industry through open-sourcing, centralization and simplification of information, innovative initiatives and international collaboration.

After spending almost 25 years in fashion as an advertising and editorial creative director, it wasn’t until 2013 when the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) hired his agency work on design and marketing materials for its sustainability committee that Bergmann realized there was a lot of cleaning up to do.

“I quickly learned that the industry—that I’d always seen as glamorous and creative—had a less than glamorous side, and as someone who’s always been interested in ecology and human rights, and as a Tibetan Buddhist, I started to see the urgency of what I was learning and how the sustainability efforts of the nonprofits and consultants working in this area could really use a healthy dose of powerful creative direction and marketing,” Bergmann explained, adding, “I had to do my part in helping to fix the problems in the global fashion industry.”

Thus, Responsibility in Fashion was born.

To name a few of its esteemed industry thought leaders: Burak Cakmak, the dean of fashion at Parsons School of Design; Lewis Perkins, president of the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute; and LaRhea Pepper, director of the Textile Exchange. The organization also has the ongoing support of the CFDA.

“Our website contains the first comprehensive responsibility starting point for small and medium sized brands and a resource and information source that’s accessible to all,” Bergmann said.

Further, the nonprofit has identified key areas that it feels have the potential to create the greatest seismic change in the fashion industry, including a “central hub for responsible sourcing that’s accessible to all and easy to navigate” is one.

“The majority of designers and brands around the world lack the financial resources, time and patience to navigate the current state of responsible sourcing,” he said, adding, “A centralized hub has the global potential to bring down material costs, stimulate worldwide responsible innovation and competition and build a more responsible fashion industry.”

Something else that needs to change: what the terms “sustainable fashion” and “eco fashion” mean. According to Bergmann, the industry needs to start making responsibility cool. He also pointed out that consumers need to a simple and universally recognizable logo. “[One] that instantly says to them that garments are responsibly made, to guide and empower responsible shopping,” he noted.

For basic starter information and steps on how to build responsible sourcing into the design process, designers can check out responsibilityinfashion.org.

7 Steps to Make Your Brand More Sustainable

Sustainability is much more than a meaningless buzzword—it’s essential to any long-term business strategy. Bewildered apparel brands, consider attending a series of boot-camp seminars on the topic at Texworld USA (July 12-14) in New York’s Javits Center.

Day one of the biannual textile trade show, which is a partner in NYC Textile Week, kicks off with an educational program titled “Striving for Sustainability: Creating Material Change,” co-hosted by Lenzing Fibers and Textile Exchange (TE).

Jeff Wilson, director of business value strategy and development at TE, and Tricia Carey, Lenzing’s business development manager, will get the green ball rolling with a discussion about cotton, polyesters and manmade cellulosics.

Using TE’s Material Summaries and Snapshots and Lenzing’s overview of TENCEL® and Lenzing Modal®, the duo will break down the basics of these preferred fiber solutions (both environmental and social attributes) to better equip attendees with the information needed to advocate for their adoption.

Following, Peter Pierrou, communications manager at ChemSec (International Chemical Secretariat), a global non-profit dedicated to working toward a toxic-free environment, will tackle chemical management and how companies can approach it.

Later that afternoon, Lewis Perkins, president of Cradle to Cradle, will join Wilson and Meredith Boyd, Unifi Manufacturing’s corporate business development manager, to chat about integrating sustainability into every aspect of a line, from conception to finished garment to second life, as well as the tools available to navigate that journey.

Because third-party recognition is always important when it comes to social responsibility claims, TE’s standards and compliance manager, Lee Tyler, will round out the day with a rundown of all the certifications and standards that are out there so brands can ensure they get what they want and, more importantly, can prove it. Plus, Tyler will help attendees navigate the Texworld USA floor to find the right sources for their products.

Plenty more panel discussions, seminars and conversations will take place over the course of the three-day trade show, including more on sustainability.

Jim Krueger, founder and chief executive of International Antimicrobial Council, Dina Dunn, president of Blink, and assistant head of laboratory, function and care at Hohenstein Institute, Anja Haemmerle, will talk brand integrity and lab testing on day two.

In addition, Wilson and Boyd will separate fact from fiction when they explore the current reality of recycled polyesters, from technical attributes and environmental benefits to challenges and opportunities for greater adoption.

For more information on what’s coming up at this summer’s edition of Texworld USA, visit texworldusa.com.

The New School’s Parsons School of Design and Cooper Hewitt To Launch New York Textile Month

As the weather heats up, so will another fashion-forward celebration in New York City.

Parsons School of Design and Cooper Hewitt on Monday announced New York Textile Month, a city-wide festival about textile creativity and industry awareness that’s slated to take place in September.

Dean of Hybrid Studies at Parsons School of Design and trend forecaster Lidewij Edelkoort will host the event, which will bring together museums, galleries, showrooms, students, design studios, retailers and the public to discuss the global impact of textiles.

Edelkoort spoke about a greater need for industry members to learn about textiles in terms of culture and sustainability:

“Architects, artists, and industrial designers as well as fashion designers no longer know the materials they work with each day of their careers. Textile heritage is at a crossroads, and the need arises to protect these endangered species in the same way we have come to defend our animal friends in the natural world.”

Admission to New York Textile Month is free. For more information, visit The New School’s website.

Is Made in USA Actually Remaking Its Mark?

Optimism about Made in U.S.A. was high at the latest edition of Texprocess Americas, with more companies looking for ways to make domestically and more seeking solutions for improving their product without the aid of anything from abroad.

The Atlanta, Georgia-based show held earlier this month played host to leaders in equipment and technology for the sewn products sector, and attendees hungry to reshore.

Read more on Sourcing Journal.

NYC Fashion Forward to Offer 100 Paid Internships for Summer 2016

Manhattan’s fashion industry is a tough nut to crack, but a new initiative backed by the mayor could make it a little easier for some hopefuls.

The Mayor’s Fund to Advance New York City, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) and the New York City Economic Development Corporation (NYCEDC) on Monday announced the launch of NYC Fashion Forward, a public-private partnership that will create 100 paid internships for local high school and undergraduate college students.

Read more on Sourcing Journal.

Texworld USA Announces First Cutting Edge Award Winners

Texworld USA and Apparel Sourcing were held at NYC’s Jacob Javits Center from January 24-26. The shows attracted over 4,000 visitors and 310 exhibitors, representing 16 different countries.

“Unbelievable. I cannot thank Texworld enough. We get the best customers from this show and we’ll do it again. It’s priceless. Even with the bad weather it wasn’t a total loss”, said Steve Asoulin, whose company Absolute Asoulini exhibited at Texworld USA Winter 2016.

One highlight of the show was Texworld USA’s Innovative Trend Forum, which explored color and textile trends for spring/summer 2017. In addition, the show also featured the debut of the Texworld Cutting Edge Awards, which recognized the most innovative products of the season.

“The Texworld USA Cutting Edge awards were established with the goal of helping attendees and visitors discover the best of what Texworld USA has to offer. At the same time, it’s just as important that we continue to encourage our exhibitors to develop these cutting edge products by recognizing their valuable contributions to the industry.”, said Dennis Smith, President, Messe Frankfurt North America.

Below are the Texworld USA Cutting Edge Award Winners:

“MOST ON TREND” AWARD
Cheer Tex International Co. Ltd

”TEMPERATURE CONTROL” AWARD
Everest Textile Co., Ltd.

”DENIM INNOVATION” AWARD
Mozartex Co. Ltd.

”MOST INNOVATIVE “ AWARD
Zhejiang Matsui Textile

“LIGHTWEIGHT AND STRONG” AWARD
Zhejiang Matsui Textile

“MOISTURE WICKING” AWARD
Labtex

“ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY” AWARD
Hong In Enterprises Co., Ltd.

“BEST BOOTH” AWARD
Daechun